American Holiday - 7

The lovely boss of historic Fairmont Copley Plaza Boston, Tabish Siddiquie, was out of town. But never mind, Girlahead was looked after splendidly, magnificently. What other words can one use? Well, it was as though she was a super special DHL parcel, although she wasn't wrapped in bright yellow and bright red. She was smothered in thoughtfulness, especially by two young ladies, Rebecca and Hayleigh, who forwent free time to deputise for their boss.

Even from the very start, she was picked up from her point of previous departure by Cori Copley, a black Labrador,THE black Labrador, the inherited ambassador of the hotel, with a great pedigree. Every single one of the four-legged ambassadors has achieved fame, say, writing books or appearing at events. Cori, with her minder Joe Fallon, the concierge who takes her home, to his home – every night, came to pick Girlahead up, and then she, the dog, not Girlahead, retreated into the doghouse that sits outside the hotel's main entrance in Copley Square. 

This was once upon a time Art Square, because of the arts interest all around. It was re-named after artist John Singleton Copley, 1738–1815, in 1912 when, at a cost of $5.5 million, the new hotel was designed by Henry Janeway Hardenbergh, who also put up New York's Plaza and the Willard in Washington, D.C,: because of the reclamation of Back Bay to build the hotel, it was necessary to put 8,000 wood piles, 70 feet down below street level. 

In front of the doorway now are two golden lions, sculpted by a Bostonian, Alexander Pope. This is Boston's hotel with history. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had their second honeymoon here. Peacock Alley became the place for elegant tea dances in the 1920s. There was a fire in 1979. It nearly caught out Sumner Redstone, then 54, with an anonymous friend but the wily media magnate when on to be 97: the hotel is still music mad, with named suites for the Boston Pops and the Boston Symphony as well as partnerships with the Museum of Fine Arts, with the JFK Library, with the Red Sox. 

This time, Girlahead was in suite 443, ideal for those who prefer a long soaking tub to a quick shower, for those who want to be near the outstanding Fairmont Gold lounge, where breakfast is the big success story: superb buffet, big bowls of each type of berry and other fruits chopped, help-yourself bowls of Greek yogurt, almond among the milk types. Excellent coffee machine. Cold cuts with salmon and hot dishes that included sausages, bacon, and scrambled egg. Yes, good old-fashioned wake-up grub.

This rambling 17-floor, 385-room Ashkenazy-owned hotel has so much charm. It’s for nostalgics who just Love Boston.. It was so lovely to return to Peacock Alley, with its original 1912 tiled floor. There wasn't time, sadly, to go back to the Oval Room, which in the 1930s was sometimes a skating rink. There was time, naturally, to return to the Oak Room, much beloved over the years and perhaps now less a destination restaurant than a lounge with screens that separate the dining part from the sitting and chatting part. There's still a bar with a cooking area behind it, but food is perhaps less important, it seems, than the overall ambiance, drinking and meeting. The menu is a simple card, taller than normal A4: eight starters, five sharing dishes, and six entrées. Tuna tartare came with a chili crisp, and an American Wagyu striploin was personalised with spinach, and fries, delicious from a copper mug. 

To be honest, it was the amazingly helpful and genuine staff who highlighted the entire stay at Fairmont Copley Plaza. John, a doorman, who wanted to show a photo with JFK, has been here 41 years. Jay, now in Fairmont Gold, who's done the rounds. has been here 20 years (he only looks about 20). This is home. Even when the boss is away ‘home’ works.

And as for Joe Fallon, handler of Cari Copley…. Well, on departure Joe and the lab joined two others in walking Girlahead, in the rain, to Back Bay station, and waiting on the platform until they actually put her on the train. Heard about ‘going the extra mile’?

 
 

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