Catalonia - 5
Yes, David Stein is host with the most. Above, he’s with Dominik Huber , another local Priorat celebrity who defected from his native Bavaria to establish Vila de Torroja Terroir Al Limit here.
The backdrop is the main building or Mas d’en Bruno has unique accommodations. This time Girlahead was in 22. About 75 square meters interior, wood or oatmeal-colored stone flooring, wood or cream walls, flat or slightly angled ceilings with wood slats. Unique is the area that can be curtained off at night, which has a gigantic stone bath for two or more. And separating this from the sitting area, a television unit with a flame fire below. Look out from this relaxed area at a private upper terrace, one enormous fir tree and greenery around, and seating for four. Go down five shallow steps to a wooden platform with another table, four more chairs, and a lower level view. Outstanding in 22 is the size of the shower, the fact there are three big heavy hooks to hang things on, a double sink of deep, beef blood-colored marble, and Eight & Bob toiletries in freestanding pump pots. There's an eclectic collection of books and a well-thought-out collection of local wines. From the terrace you can see down through lavender and greenery to the swimming pool. Down one side there are seven semi-private enclaves, each with double, each with lounging for two, and the other side of the pool are eight umbrellas, exactly the same terracotta coloring as part of the main house. It's understated design throughout.
After a hike up the vineyards, Girlahead went through to breakfast, to a buffet with local hams and cheeses, and yogurts and fruits and all the main things, and anything you want brought to order. Dinner can be a set menu or à la carte. The main restaurant, Vinum, is Michelin-recommended and Josep Queralt’s food calls out Catalonia again and again – see, below, an eggplant dish. One night we started with grilled Maitake mushrooms with pine nuts emulsion, garlic praline crisp. Next came charcoal-grilled Montaraz Iberian pork. Dessert was creamy Valrhona chocolate tart with smoked cream icecream. Oh the wines – perhaps a Clos Maria Montsant 2019, and, if Sheri Perricone was around, a sealing wax-sealed Perinet 1194 22018.
This is THE retreat to unwind and learn up. History and food and wine, and David Hockney among the original displays, and a spa with indoor water features to balance the outdoor pool. Serious and fun books, fireplaces and sun. The music of cultural silence.
