At Raffles, the long awaited 1887 by André is discreetly hidden behind the afternoon tea area of the lobby. The discretion is commendable. The space is lovely, slightly two-tiered, with enormous mirrors at the far end, and in the cabanas that run down the left side. The right side of the restaurant looks into a courtyard with greenery. The upper level is dominated by the semicircular bar, which has ten serious green armchairs at the bar, adding to 42 seats in the main area. Around the entire space walls are white up to cornice level, above which it's Bill Bensley doing tropical undergrowth – high up, either side of the main area are four self-flapping wall-set wicker fans.
That’s the spatial theatre for, 1887 by André: A timeless soirée of elegance & enchantment. André is André Chiang, 50, son of a Taiwanese female chef – he’d cooked as a child, at home, and as an adult he trained with the Pourcel brothers in Paris. Today his Octaphilosophy is based on eight elements: salt, texture, memory, purity, terroir, south, artisan and uniqueness. He currently has a total of four Michelin stars, two each for RAW in Taipei, and 1887 by André, which got two stars four months after its opening 31 March 2026.
Every lunch, every dinner is full-house, and it’s a dressy crowd. Girlahead’s dinner, with current châteleine of Raffles, the versatile Giampaolo Ottazzi, was absolutely divine. Service, by several Taiwanese led by a lovely Dutch manager Martha Przybyla, was spot-on. The meal included a Grand Plateau sharing plateau and Dessert Le Vert, namely an avocado soufflé with pistachio kombu icecream, matcha icecream, green olive macaron.
The highlight, however, had to be Fish and Chips. Girlahead has sampled this comfort food all around the world. They say the best are in Taupo, in New Zealand's North Island. They say the best are in Scotland (Anstruther Fish Bar, in Fife, won Fish N’ Chips Takeaway of the Year at the Scottish Takeaway Awards 2026). But the best of the original versions could well be said to be here, by André. See above. It’s an edible sculpture of a bed of toasted millet holding head and tail of dehydrated sardine flanking a fish ball of cod mousse topped with deep-fried smelt, with homemade barbeque ketchup on the side. But what about the ‘chips’? Served separately, these are formed of deep-fried mashed potato lengths.
Yes, two great experiences on this return visit to Raffles. Once again, it's easy to see why this institution is above the par for the many luxury establishments in Singapore.
